6 Best Cuttings to Root in Water During Winter
Honestly, I’m always on the lookout for ways to keep my plants happy when winter hits.
Water rooting is just about the easiest trick I know for enjoying fresh greenery indoors—no fancy gear or big space required.
You can grow new plants from cuttings in water and watch them thrive through the winter months.
Let’s talk about some of the best plants to root in water when it’s cold out.
I’ll also share why this method works well in winter, plus a few tips to keep your cuttings from going downhill.
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1) Pothos

Pothos is probably my go-to for rooting in water—it’s just so forgiving. It grows well indoors, even if the sunlight isn’t great.
When I grab a cutting, I make sure there’s at least one node on it. That’s the little bump where new roots pop out. I like to use a clear glass so I can peek at the roots as they develop.
I try to swap out the water every week. Fresh water really does help keep things clean and gives the plant a better shot at strong roots.
Usually, within a few weeks, I’ll spot those thin white roots starting to stretch out. When they’re a couple inches long, I either leave the plant in water or pot it up in soil.
Pothos doesn’t complain much. Even if I forget to change the water once or twice, it keeps chugging along.
Quick results make it fun to check on during dreary winter days. It’s such an easy way to sneak in more green without a fuss.
2) Philodendron Brasil

Philodendron Brasil is another winner for water rooting. Those bright green leaves with yellow streaks never fail to cheer up a windowsill.
I always make sure my cutting has at least one node. That’s the magic spot for roots. Into a clear jar of water it goes, and then I just watch the roots do their thing.
I keep the jar somewhere warm with indirect light. Direct sun is a bit much, but a bright window nearby is perfect. Water gets changed weekly—nothing fancy.
Roots usually show up within a couple of weeks. When they’re long enough, I’ll either plant them in soil or let them keep growing in water. Both ways work, though I lean toward soil for sturdier growth.
This plant grows quickly, even when it’s chilly. Philodendron Brasil is low-maintenance, so if I miss a water change, it’s not the end of the world.
Sharing these cuttings with friends is half the fun. One vine gives me plenty of new plants, and rooting is almost foolproof. Can’t really beat that for easy plant multiplying.
3) Spider Plant

Spider plant pups are just about the easiest to root in water. Those little “babies” grow roots super fast once you pop them in a jar.
I snip off a healthy pup with a few leaves, making sure the base sits in the water but the leaves stay dry. Wet leaves just lead to rot, and nobody wants that.
After a couple of weeks, new roots start to show up. It’s honestly pretty satisfying to watch.
I change the water every few days to keep things fresh. Clean water means stronger roots and no weird smells.
Once the roots are about two inches long, the pup is ready for soil. After that, it grows just like any other spider plant.
This whole process is easy to do in winter. Just set the jar near a sunny window, and you’re good to go.
4) English Ivy

English Ivy is a classic for rooting in water. Its vines look great trailing from a jar, especially on a windowsill.
I cut a stem with a few leaves and make sure at least one node is under the water. That’s where roots will pop out.
Changing the water every few days keeps things from getting slimy. Fresh water really boosts root growth.
When the roots are a couple inches long, I decide if I want to keep the ivy in water or pot it up. Both are fine, depending on my mood.
Ivy likes bright, indirect light. Too much sun is harsh, but a bright spot does the trick.
It’s easy to care for, and I like watching the roots develop. Perfect for bringing a bit of green inside in the colder months.
5) Coleus

Coleus cuttings in water are a favorite of mine. They grow quickly, and the colorful leaves brighten up winter days.
I snip a healthy stem, about 4 to 6 inches, and pull off the lower leaves so nothing sits in the water. That seems to help roots form faster.
The cutting goes into a clear glass near a bright window. Coleus likes indirect light, so I steer clear of harsh sun.
Water gets changed every few days. In a week or two, tiny white roots start appearing, which always feels like a win.
Once the roots are a couple inches long, I decide whether to leave them in water or move them to soil. Sometimes I just keep a bunch in jars because they look cool.
6) Fuchsia

Fuchsia cuttings root fast in water, and honestly, they don’t need much fussing over. Their soft stems seem to love water propagation, especially in winter.
I pick a healthy, non-flowering stem about 4-6 inches long. After cutting, I remove the lower leaves to avoid rot.
The cutting goes in a clear glass of water so I can keep an eye on the roots. I keep it in a bright spot, but out of direct sun—strong light just stresses it out.
Fresh water every few days is key. That keeps bacteria away and helps roots grow faster.
Usually, fine white roots show up in a couple weeks. When they’re about an inch long, I’ll move the cutting to soil if I want a stronger plant.
Rooting fuchsia in winter is a nice way to get a jump on spring. It’s such an easy way to multiply one of my favorite flowering plants.
Why Water Propagation Works in Winter
Honestly, rooting cuttings in water during winter is just practical. When the soil’s too cold to bother with, water lets me keep an eye on things and tweak care as needed.
Benefits of Water Rooting
I like water rooting because I can actually see what’s happening. No guessing if the cutting is alive—if roots are growing, it’s obvious.
Water keeps the stem consistently moist, which is tricky with soil in the winter. There’s no stress about soil drying out too fast or staying soggy forever.
I can stick jars on a sunny windowsill where the temperature’s steady. All I need is a clear container and some fresh water—no fancy equipment.
Honestly, it saves space too. Instead of pots everywhere, I just line up jars and root a bunch of cuttings at once.
Common Challenges in Cold Months
Water rooting in winter isn’t perfect. The biggest headache? Slow root growth thanks to less light and cooler air. Cuttings just take longer than they would in spring.
Water temperature can be an issue too. If it gets too cold, roots don’t want to form. I avoid drafty windows and always use room-temp water when I change it.
Algae can still show up, even in winter. Cloudy water stresses out the cuttings, so I clean the jars a lot and stick with clear glass to keep an eye on things.
Some plants just refuse to root in water when it’s cold. I stick with easy ones like pothos, coleus, and philodendron so I’m not disappointed.
Tips for Successful Winter Water Rooting
A good container, steady water temperature, and stopping mold before it starts—those are my main tricks for healthy cuttings in winter.
Choosing the Right Container
I always go for a clear glass jar or vase. It’s just easier to spot roots and catch problems early, like cloudy water or floppy stems. Glass seems to stay cleaner than plastic, at least in my experience.
Container size matters. I want something tall enough to hold the cutting upright but not so wide that the stem floats around. A narrow opening helps keep things stable.
I skip metal containers—sometimes they react with water and can mess up the cuttings. If I reuse a jar, I wash it really well so there’s no soap left. Clean containers mean less chance of bacteria and rot.
If I’m rooting a bunch of cuttings, each one gets its own jar. That way, if one goes bad, it doesn’t mess up the rest. Plus, it makes water changes quick and easy.
Maintaining Proper Temperature
Jars go in a bright spot indoors where it stays between 65°F and 75°F. Drafts from windows or doors slow things down, so I keep jars away from cold glass.
I don’t set jars on heaters or radiators—too much heat dries out the stems. A windowsill with filtered light or a nearby table is usually just right.
If my house feels cold, I’ll sometimes use a seedling heat mat on low. It keeps the water a little warmer and helps roots form faster.
I check the water with my hand—if it feels chilly, I move the jar somewhere warmer. Stable temps really do make a difference for healthy, growing cuttings.
Preventing Mold and Rot
I try to change the water every 3 to 5 days—it just seems to keep things fresher and helps stop bacteria from taking over. Fresh water means more oxygen for the cuttings, which is always a plus, and it really cuts down on those gross, slimy stems.
Before I refill, I’ll give the jar a quick rinse with warm water. If I spot any film or weird buildup, I’ll scrub it out. A clean container honestly does most of the heavy lifting when it comes to stopping rot.
I always make sure to pull off any leaves that might end up below the water line. Leaves sitting in water just get mushy and invite mold, which nobody wants. Just keeping the stem in the water seems to work wonders.
If I notice a cutting getting soft or, worse, starting to smell funky, I toss it out right away. No point risking the rest, right?
Frequently Asked Questions
People ask me all the time about rooting cuttings in water when it’s cold and the days are short. The plant type, water quality, and timing all matter a lot for indoor winter propagation.
What are some easy-to-root plant cuttings for indoor water propagation in the colder months?
Honestly, Pothos, Philodendron Brasil, Spider Plant, English Ivy, and Coleus have given me the best results. They root fast and don’t demand much attention to get started in water.
Can you recommend any houseplants that thrive when rooted in water over winter?
Definitely! Pothos and Philodendron Brasil are both champs—they stay healthy in water for ages. Spider Plant babies root easily too and keep their leaves looking nice, even when there’s not much light.
How long does it typically take for cuttings to root in water during the winter season?
Usually, I see roots in about 2 to 4 weeks during winter. Sometimes it takes a bit longer if the room’s chilly or not very bright, but that’s pretty normal.
Are there specific water conditions that help improve rooting success for cuttings in winter?
I just stick with room-temperature water and swap it out every few days to keep things clean. Clear glass jars are handy too—I can actually see the roots and catch any issues early.
What are the signs that my water-rooted cuttings are ready to be potted in soil?
I usually wait until the roots are at least 2 to 3 inches long before moving the cuttings to soil. If the roots look strong and white, that’s my sign they’re ready for the next step.
How can I prevent rot or disease in my water-rooted cuttings during the winter?
I always snip off any leaves that sit in the water—they just turn mushy so quickly.
Honestly, I try to keep the jar pretty clean, and when I swap out the water, I’ll give the stems a quick rinse. That seems to help the cuttings stay healthy, at least in my experience.
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